If you've read the other two posts on this topic, you'll know that now, finally, I'm all set to paint. (if you haven't read those posts. What?! This is like reading the last page of a book! What are you doing? Get to Part 1! You can find it here! :) https://planetoldhammer.wixsite.com/my-site/post/traitor-terminators-part-1 )
So, first things first. I always start with an undercoat of Mechanicus Standard Grey. Why grey? Well I used to use black, but I find it takes loads more coats of paint to get the colours right, and white just feels too bright and the colours seem to go on quite garish. Grey gives me that half way house, and for me it works great.
Next step is Kabalite green. Now I know that Games Workshop have produced a whole load of new paints just for the Sons of Horus. But as I said in a previous post, I'd much rather mix my own palette and get that colour right by eye.
Plus it looks very close, straight off the bat! Whoop!!
So, I just whacked this all over using an old brush. Nothing fancy yet, I just let my inner Bob Ross out at this point in the procedure and went for it. It helps if you occasionally hum to yourself, or chuckle at happy little accidents. As long as they don't involve up tipped pots and spilled paint that is.
Ok, so this is where is starts getting interesting. I always use a wet palette, and having one of these makes it so much easier to get those blends just right. Here, I'm blending Kabalite Green and White scar to create a set of different tints of the green. It takes time and I slowly build up to the brighter green in iterative stages. This isn't a technique I'd use if I was batch painting a load of minis, but for a hero piece like this Captain, I don't mind taking the time.
Add the paint to the surfaces where you imagine light would catch, and slowly build up the brightness with each subsequent paint over.
What you'll notice I haven't done yet, is a wash. Normally, I'd add the wash after my initial base coat. But this time around I wanted to experiment with adding in the blends first.
After this, it was time to add some black. I've actually pretty much stopped using normal black paint and have switched to just using contrast paint. I find its the prefect consistency for me instantly, and it goes on really well! Plus, when you've spent nine million years doing gradual blends, anything to speed up the other bits is a welcome relief!
Next step is the iconography. So the shoulder Crux Chaotica and the various skulls dotted around on knees etc.
I never go straight for gold for these.
I prefer the dirtier Brass Scorpion.
It always feels more worn and used, plus I can use a brighter gold for highlights later.
As I'm using metallic paints, its also a good time to plop on the Leadbelcher. All the pipes, mask and Storm Bolter are given a coat. As you can't use metallic paints on a wet palette, its always good to try and do your metallic paint phase at the same time. This way you can get your mixing palette for these types of paints out and you're not having to swap back and forth.
Once these shiny bits are done, I grabbed the wet palette again and started to work on the skin tones.
I always start with good ole Bugmans Glow. Its just my go to fave place to begin. It gives the recesses and shadows a kick start before you go into highlighting.
Next it’s another contrast paint.
This time Flesh Tearer Red. I use this for the exact same reason as the black...speed. I have to say, I love these new contrast paints. I never use them alone, but as part of a selection of tools to get your mini just right. I find them invaluable. Plus the nature of contrast paint will automatically create some great highlights on the skulls of the scabbard and deep colour in the recesses. I used this red on the scabbard, knee and grenade launcher. The reason I’m using red at all, is due to my realisation on the test mini, that the green needs a counterbalance.
Use any good colour wheel, and you’ll find that the complimentary colour to green is red. So this mini totally needs this, to help balance out the overall colour scheme.
Now it’s time to paint that humungous belt buckle I added. Lots of people thought I was off my rocker putting the buckle on the mini. But I’ve got a plan remember? I’ve literally spent hours thinking through this mini before even picking up a brush. So I ‘know’ this will work. My imagination has confirmed it! :) For this plan to work however, the buckle needs to be white. So I used White scar and I gave it several thin coats. (Sorry. I had to get that in at least once.) White you say? Why white? Well...I'm being sneaky. You'll see!
Finally its time to give the whole thing a wash. For this I used a half and half mix of Nuln Oil and Athonian Camoshade. As with the initial base colour...I just used an old brush and slopped it on the green armour whilst leaving the skin and white buckle. I also kept an eye out for excessive pooling, which can be the downfall of many a paintjob!
Now its time for what I think is the best bit of painting. Highlighting and detailing. I actually find all the initial stages a bit of a pain the rear, so whenever I get to this bit, I feel happier.
For this, I went back to my wet palette and the splodges of Kabalite Green and White scar from earlier, and I used a lighter tint to start edge highlighting. The initial blending stood up well to the wash, and the edge highlighting will now just add an extra depth to the miniature.
Now it gets even more fun! When I was doing this mini, I had just watched a top notch little tutorial online, about adding paint chips to your miniatures. You can find the link here: HOW TO PAINT BATTLE DAMAGE ON ARMOUR - Miniature Painting Tutorial - YouTube.
I've never done much of this before.
A few scratches etc. on black or red armour, but never anything like this.
As this mini was turning into a huge experiment with technique anyway,
I figured...bugger it. And I jumped straight into trying this out.
This technique to those who don't know, entails adding a lighter tint of your base colour to wherever the paint chips will be. Later, you fill some of this back in with a darker colour, like black, silver or brown. Simple and very effective. So I duly painted all my chips in with a 000 brush. (Yes...I still use 0, 00 and 000 brushes)
I filled in the lighter chipped areas with another contrast paint. This time Gore-Grunta Fur. As with the Black Templar, I love these contrast paints. They're so versatile and perfect for stuff like detailing, as the consistency and application is fantastic.
I went over the whole miniature adding in these darker elements and before I knew it...battle damage was done! In my mind, this traitor has managed to steal a lovely new suit of Indomitus Armour for himself, but then had a hell of a time getting himself and it, out of the factory.
He's starting to look the part now.
Next step is the edge highlighting and detailing over the black sections.
For this I start with Mechanicus Standard Grey again. Then switch to Dawnstone to add an extra level of highlight. I also added a highlight to the upper sections on the backs of the legs.
Time to finish the face. This was given a wash of Reikland Fleshshade and then highlighted using Cadian Fleshtone.
I then gave it another gentle wash, using a smaller brush to apply the wash to just certain areas of the face. Eyes, sides of the head and where the head juts out from the armour.
Then I grabbed White Scar again, and I mixed up various tints of Cadian Fleshtone to start adding more and more highlights to the high points of the head.
Next set of highlights was for the red and to do these I used three different colours rather than mix with white. I do this, as who wants pink highlights unless you're painting something Tzeentchy?
So, first colour I use is Mephiston Red.
I put simple edge highlights on the knee, the grenade launcher and a dry brush over the scabbard to pick out the skulls.
The second red I use is Wild Rider Red. I love this colour. Its great for highlights on deep red armour etc. and I get quite a few people asking me what it is. Well...now you know! I think it gives the mini a fantastic depth. I use this on the higher edges and also as another lighter drybrush on the scabbard.
Finally, I use Troll Slayer Orange. This is used to add a dot of highlight to wherever two edges meet and also yet another dry brush on the scabbard.
Getting close to the end now. Whilst I do have some final highlights to do on the bolt gun and brass areas, I'm ready to plop on the homemade decals.
First up is the Sons of Horus badge inspired by the ones seen in the 1989 Space Marine rule book!
Then it was something a little less obvious, but a subtle addition. I added the Legion number to the characters leg.
Finally...and here's why I wanted a perfectly white belt buckle.
I added a Sons of Horus, Eye of Horus decal to the belt buckle. And you thought I was nuts! Pft! :)
This large red eye is something I was keen to add to this miniature. Its such an evocative icon and of course the red really brings a sense of colour balance.
It also gives the viewers eye something to rest on when you look at the miniature.
Lastly a set of highlights using Stormhost Silver and Retributor Armour.
With the miniature now painted, I wanted to add a final touch by having a banner. I did play with the idea of a homemade banner using a paperclip and paper. But when browsing the Ebays, I saw this lovely thing for just £1.50! A bargain too cheap to turn down! So I painted this up, and snipped away the imperial bits from the skull for the top of the pole. I also used another of my homemade decals. And with that...job done!
